Sicily Food: Sunday Dinner

It is a Sicilian tradition to go out to eat for Sunday dinner. Restaurants which are closed all week open just for the celebration of food that is this weekly event. This week we decided to participate in the Bacchanal. We first tried the past and pizza restaurant in Alcamo which was recommended by a 'consulting agronomist' Tommaso (our wonderful landlord) introduced us to. Unfortunately, it was closed.

However, all was not lost because on our way into Alcamo on the strangest street (mixed industrial, institutional and farm land with a divided highway 3 blocks long) I had noticed that the gates to a restaurant which had always been closed, were open. "Lo Speranto... Let's try it"; I said. Christopher took the turn and we quickly discovered that it was a very popular spot, i.e. not a parking spot to be had. On our way in we were stopped by an Italian couple who asked us whether we had reservations - they'd been deterred by the automatic gate that didn't open for them. We not only didn't have reservations, we'd parked in a secondary lot littered with 'artifacts'. The Italian couple followed us in, deciding if the anglese were up for it, so were they.

It took a while to find the restaurant and it's front door, the first door we tried was for a private party (a confirmation party we think). We were eventually seated in a smallish room of 5 tables, all of which were occupied by tiny little Sicilians (more on this later) who were still in their winter clothes of pants, sweaters and quilted vests. The table was set with bread and a half litre of red wine. After some initial confusion (we weren't confused, but we managed to confuse the hostess) an English speaking waiter came to explain that the menu was fixed - fixed courses and fixed price of 25EU which included wine and water.

The fixed courses included 10 appetizers, 2 pastas, 3 meat, dolci and fruit. In my naiveté I assumed we'd get a few of these, not all of them. We got all of them. At this point I feel obliged to add that the Sicilians around us also received all of these courses and, despite being mere morsels of humans, all the dishes were consumed, saving an apple and half an orange. We were not such trenchermen as that. I'm sure we must have insulted the cook because of our inability to consume even half of what was brought.

Not only that, but it was over 30 degrees C - and we were melting while our Sicilian counterparts were merely comfortable enough to take off their quilted vests. I think many of my workmates will wish they were here - no space heaters necessary!

The other outcome of this day is we have discovered where the horses who trot by our home each morning live - at the restaurant's stable. One of the horses we see regularly is a gorgeous chestnut brown with a dark mane and one white sock - quite distinctive - and he was there.

Sicily: May Day Festa!

The first of May is a big deal here in Italy, as in other parts of Europe which have had socialist governments - it is their celebration of unionized labour (I think). It is a national holiday, with festivals and events all over. Our own local party was just downstairs! The party was to celebrate the local under 12 (?) boy's soccer team victory. I understood that this little local team won either the provincial or national cup - they are on their way to Dresden Germany to compete against other EU victors.

The really funny part is that at first, neither of us understood that this was a soccer team. We both thought that all these boys were children of the family - and that of all Giuseppe's grandchildren there were only 2 girls! Luckily one of the wonderful hosts spoke English and she explained to me after much laughter that this was the local soccer team, not just the family's kids. It was an extended affair with astounding amounts of food. It started at around 10am and ended at around 9pm. We didn't have the stamina for the entire bout, but did enjoy ourselves enormously. Isla also enjoyed the fun, she was much petted and given many treats.

Thanks to our fabulous friends Ian and Charmaine back home... we were able to assist with the taking of all team event SELFIE photos with the use our our Selfie Stick (Thanks Char!).  Now the Team President can also be in the photo along with everyone else.  It was one of those moments that called for HELP.  We enjoyed having it and we thought it would be a nice way to say thank you for including us in their celebration.  Also... watching the incoming and outgoing team presidents struggle trying to take photos of everyone was... well... painful.

Sicily: Social Failure, the Photos

We still cannot believe how much garbage is left in piles on the side of the road everywhere. We had a good chat with Joe, who used to live in Hamilton, but makes his home here now. He too is astounded at how bad the situation is - no recycling, plastic everything!

Recycling need to go into the schools here so values can be changed.  The people are beautiful, the land is beautiful... but the garbage makes it terrible.  Everyone's home (whatever their definition of home is) is scrupulously clean... but outside the gate... not so much.  This is such a terribly sad thing in one of the most beautiful parts of the world.

Sicily: Country Drive

This part of Sicily, is special in so many ways. The countryside is remarkably green, lush and compelling with wildflowers in bloom. 8 years ago we did a cycle tour through this part of the world, and as I was cleaning out my office preparing for my sabbatical I discovered the route map and directions for that cycling trip in the back of a drawer. It seemed like destiny - we had to try and find some of these locations again. We did find 3 of the remarkable spots; the thermal baths, the wood fired bakery and the cannoli place. Only the thermal baths were open the day we visited - and due to our 11:30 arrival, only for a short time (they close at 13:00).

We thoroughly enjoyed our meandering drive through the countryside, taking all the side turns and avoiding the 'big cities'.

Sicily: 'It's a whole other country'; streets, roads and parking

Although this is our 4th time in Sicily, it is the first time we've had a car, so the first time we've really confronted the concept of autostrata, roads, streets, vias (little streets), viccolos (even smaller streets) and strata privata (private roads). To be honest, we are still very confused about what is what. I'll post photos so you can see why we are confused.
This sequence of photos shows the entry to a major highway - through a parking lot.

This is a wide road in Sicily.

Here is the turn we didn't take the first few times because it seems to go into a parking lot. 

But no, if you follow the flow of cars which take the dog leg uphill, through the parking lot you arrive at a highway. Not a very safe entrance, but there you are. 

Major highway.

Entrance to the autostrada.

Sicily: Melting in May

I don't think it is possible to express exactly how hot it is here in Balestrate on this 5th of May. I believe it is 32 degrees Celcius in the shade. This is not taking into account the sirocco winds which are blowing hot and dry all the way from Africa. Even on our beautifully shady, breezy 2nd floor deck at 8am it was 24... I hope for some relief by swimming in the mare (ocean) at the bottom of our little street.

For those who know Sarah... this hot weather is forcing her to become more of a morning and evening person.  She has the napping down and the evenings... but mornings?