Sicily: Questura Failure + Palermo sightseeing etc.

We went into downtown Palermo, to the head office of the provincial (territorial?) Questura to get Christopher's permit. Sadly, we'd been mis-informed about the address. Sigh. We went to the Questura which deals with Italians seeking permits.  Seeing as I'm not Italian, and neither is Christopher; it was the wrong address. We were supposed to go to some office in the suburban hinterland of Palermo, about a 40 minute drive from where we'd gone. I was desperately under caffeinated, having gotten up absurdly early and paid for train tickets to do this thing. We had no car, and tickets to return from Palermo that afternoon on the train.

The only thing to do was 'f' it and move on to see some sights of Palermo. We visited a very quiet Dioscean museum which houses art works unhoused from their original churches by WWII bombings. Some of the works were lovely, others disturbing. We were both very intrigued by some carved stonework - originally from a church facade that included every monster and half-beast imaginable. No photos were allowed and we were followed/guided throughout the museum.

Then we decided to just wander around, following whomever we pleased in the tiny side streets (called 'vicolos') and we stumbled on one of Palermo's larger street markets - it had everything + more. A few times over. The weirdest thing was the guy with a basket of guts that he put on bread and sold for a couple Euros. Man food, definitely - guys were all over that stuff! The vendor would reach into the covered basket and pull out a bunch of 'stuff' and slap it on a bun. Neither of us was brave enough.

We did buy some capers in salt from the Island of Pantelarea (off the coast of Sicily and reputed to have the best capers) and some olives from the province of Calabria and some salumi from Corleone.

Sicily: Our neighbourhood in Balestrate

I've been remiss in posting photos of our stunningly beautiful locale. We live in the valley of the gods as far as we are concerned.

Sicily: Wine Tasting

This past friday, Christopher was invited by a new friend to "go and get some wine". A few hours later, he was back. With 6l of wine. "They don't do small bottles"; he said. It was a man's thing, we wives were not invited.

Christopher reports;
First to Sal's place, then to Sal's neighbour who had boiled fava and eggs together for lunch. Lunch went on for a while. Then some more guys arrived. There might have been beer at this point. After quickly downing beer, fava and boiled eggs, we get on our way. All piled into the back of some random car. Luckily they were Sicilian guys, so even with Christopher, and the shepherd (a large man) everyone sort of fit. So it was a real, authentic man's thing. You turn at a big pile of garbage, and drive a while along a well tended road beside well tended farmland. You end at a courtyard - greeted by a burnt to a crisp red-head, who is the Sicilian proprietor. There's lots of back and forth and kissy kissy. Sal turns out to be the biggest talker of the bunch.

SORRY EVERYONE... NO PICS ON THIS ONE... BOYS ONLY.

Christopher found the secret pics!

We go through this house entrance sort of space, then into a sort of cavern filled with new stainless steel barrels and apparently ancient wooden barrels the size of a small apartment. There's a bit of tasting - in plastic cups - the full size ones. There were around 11 barrels. No sniffing, no swirling. You drink it and you have to be a man about it. Hey, we're not driving, the other guy is!

The vino rosso is in the giant kegs - the wooden barrels. We all got one or two bottles each - the other guys had 4litre bottles.

Then there was a 'lets have one all together' after we paid the pittance for the wine. And then we drove back to Sal's neighbour's place and eat more fava and eggs and drink more beer. And then eventually the boys arrive back at Balestrate where the ladies have slaved over the fish course... yet more eating.
Not many photos were taken, it was a very manly affair.

Sarah reports:
When Christopher and Sal got back they were at great pains to explain how complimentary they'd been about us and how they'd received explicit permission to bring us along the next time they go to get wine!

Sicily: Soccer Semi Final Victory! Balestrate v. ?

This past week we'd seen posters up around town telling us that the hometown favourites (Balestrate) were fighting for their spot in the finals against who? Well, some lesser team as it turned out. Balestrate was victorious, although due to our late arrival we didn't see the game winning goal. The teams seemed pretty evenly matched - and yes, they were adults, not children (as I had thought from the posters).

We both really appreciated the sportsman like conduct of all the players. Even though there were a few penalties called, by and large the players weren't taking obious dives (which we both hate), and they were willing to allow their opponents to help them up off the field.

At the very end there was a bit of hooliganism for no reason (as is usual), but it didn't escalate into anything...

Finish the day off with wood fired oven PIZZA and ALCAMO white wine!

Sicily Gardens; Before, After, and After After

One of the many attractions of this lovely home in Balestrate was the small garden I saw in the photos. I enjoy pottering in the garden, and even more enjoy the super fresh produce it provides. I was a bit disappointed that when we arrived the garden was still in its winter clothes - seedy and chaotic.

I set to with the tools at hand - a pick-axe, mattock (small and large) and hoe. Unfortunately I have had tendinitis in my forearms and using these traditional tools made that flare up. Nevertheless, I did make some progress with modified techniques.

I planted the basil and lettuce, but was to tired to keep going with the other plants - tomatoes and parsley.

I must add that before I embarked on this gardening project I did ask our wonderful landlord if it would be ok and he assured me that it would be.. .

I am not certain whether my haphazard attempts inspired Giuseppe to take pity on me or whether he planned to weed and roto-till the garden any way; but for two extremely long days this week, our wonderful downstairs neighbour Giuseppe first weeded, then roto- tilled the little garden behind the house. Now it looks like the beautiful tidy garden that Christopher so admired across the garden fence in our side yard neighbour:

 or at least it is on its way there.

Sicily: Internet is Back

Time flies when you are relaxed. We'd no internet connection for a while, but i think it is sorted - you can buy more time at the tobacconist (go figure).

Sicily Food: Pasta Vongole - Pasta with Clams