Lingua, Salina - A Cannata

We happened upon this place bc Chris needed to email for work. It smells fabulous! I have high hopes bc it has a slow food reccomendation.

Cape Faro Lunch

Due to unexpected switchbacks we have ended up eating lunh at a surreal Italian resort. Little did I realize what we were in for when we took this turn. Hotel California any one?

Salina, the Sweet Life

No sooner did we arrive at this lovely island, than our camera quit on us. So, not only can't I show you how lovely this part of the world is, I don't have an internet connection often enough to describe it to you either. Our little apartment is exactly as pictured and includes 2 terraces and a 180 degree view of the ocean including the islands of Lipari, Stromboli, and Panarea. We keep hoping that Stromboli will pitch a fit and erupt one of the evenings we are here. We are able to see it fulminating, along with it's companion volcano on the mainland, Etna.

So far the food had been fabulous. Both what we've eaten out and what we've hunted, gathered and cooked ourselves. As you may imagine, breakfast on the terrace is a daily highlight. Our first evening here we watched the sun set colour Lipari from our terrace, and then headed to one of the acclaimed restaurants in the tiny town where we are staying (Lingua). We have had fabulous little bony fish, raw 'sea fruits' of various types and forms, lots of fresh lemons, espresso and some sadly mediocre bread (the only slightly sour note on the food front).

Tomorrow we hope to bicyle around the mountain seperating us from the rest of the island. Today we tried to climb it, and were soundly defeated by thorns, reptiles and brambles. Also, after returning to the road the second time we decided that it is really an all day climb, not something to be knocked off in an afternoon. If I could send you a photo, you'd understand...

Our little town is so quiet that at night you can hear everything. The best part of that quiet nature was the first night when we watched a copule fishermen dragging in their nets and listend to them laughing about the time they were having. The worst part is that the neighbour's dog is very bothered by my laughter - every time I burst out laughing that dog starts barking. and barking. and barking.

It's unliely that we'll be posting again before we hit Rome, but don't worry about us, we're having a wonderful time.

Palermo Reprise

This is our second visit to Palermo, Sicily and we must admit to having developed a soft spot for this place. On our prior visit it compared badly to Rome and suffered from it's first impression being after a night on the train. This time we arrived in relaxed, luxurious style with the Grand Navi Veloci ferry from Genoa. Let me tell you, this port compares very favourably to Genoa. We arrived and disembarked very smoothly and were able to find our hotel without trouble thanks to it's large neon sign. Don't let the neon fool you, this is a classy joint, with Murano glass chandeliers throughout.

We ate a very tasty meal at Vino and Pomodoro "ristaurante, pizzeria, wine bar". The closing apperitivo was an almond flavoured liquor that we were so taken with we asked where we could buy it. Ah, let me see said our multi lingual waiter. The reply? Only here at the restaurant for Euro 25. We succumbed and the pre-used, and re-corked, Kientzler wine bottle was presented to us with the bill.

After our meal we felt in need of a walk. During our prior visit to Palermo, we felt rather inhibited when it came to evening walks. This time, we were part of a throng of people out walking. As it turned out, some of them were walking with a purpose as we discovered once we heard live music. In front of the Palermo opera house (just finishing a run of Don Quixote) was a stage and the live band was playing salsa! We danced a little, Chris danced more, most impressed with him self for remembering the steps. Who would think we'd dance salsa in Palermo, Sicily and not in Colombia?

Ferry to Palermo with Grand Navi Veloci

I was very pleased that the bicycles were no problem at all - they even gave us some priority for boarding and there's a special spot reserved for bikes with restraining straps and everything. We've got a room with a bathroom (thank-you Direct Ferries) and manged to get some sleep last night despite the huge seas. Chris has been holding up for well, although I notice there are not that many people in the dining room for lunch...

This is the most luxurious 'ferry' I've ever been on. It has a piano bar, casino, restaurants and marble floors throughout. It is quite a contrast to the extremely skeezy location it departs from.

Levanto to Iqubal Masih - Genoa's Port

We arrived by train from Monterosso into Levanto with plenty of time to hunt out some snacks for the journey to Genoa. We were given good advice by the Trenitalia folks and were able to take a train with space for bikes. It was also populated by some rather unsavory smelly characters. Upon our arrival in Genoa we followed the Uscita (exit) and were surprised to find ourselves on a busy street without a taxi cab in sight. A kind fellow directed us to the cab rank around the corner at what was the 'front' entrance to the station. As we were folding our bikes in preparation to put them in the cab the driver told us it was only 1km to the ferry terminal, easy, only 5 lights. He was right in one way. For Italy it was reasonably straight forward. I was really glad that it was not rush hour. We arrived safely at the shopping mall which houses the offices for 3 major ferry lines. I succeeded in getting our tickets very easily and was very happy to hear that we could board straight away and that the bicycles would be no problem. Only partially true. We had an hour and a half wait. We could wait in the very creepy mall with shuttered businesses, durty floors and sketchy characters; or we could wait in the upper parking lot in the cold and wind; or we could go to the Italian Chinese restaurant. Which would you pick? We did too. The food was really tasty, the wine was cheep and we were happy to be out of the wind and feeling safe.

Levanto to Monterosso and Back Again

After a late start and discussion about whether to continue with the itinerary or pack it all in, we decided to go on with it. We ate lunch at a lovley little 'tipico' place in Levanto and wandered to the trail head for the hike to Monterosso. We left our bikes and bags locked together at the train station except for Christopher's computer which he elected to carry for the training benefit.

The walk was lovely and well worth the time and effort. Especially the end as we arrived in Monterosso and cold see the 5 little towns of the Cinque Terre lined up along the ocean. The hike took 2 hours of steady walking. The train back? 3.60 for two and only 4 minutes.